Natural Remedies for Ulcers in Horses

The following article is written by holistic veterinarian, Dr. Madalyn Ward, DVM, and is re-printed with permission.  Please see Dr. Ward’s website, Holistic Horsekeeping for more articles and information on holistic horse care. race horse Natural Remedies for Ulcers in Horses

 Natural Ulcer Relief for Horses

Intestinal ulcers are an unfortunate fact of life for many performance horses. Because ulcers can be so uncomfortable for horses, the temptation for their owners is to reach for the product that will offer the quickest relief, usually in the form of conventional drugs. However, these drugs block or buffer the horse’s stomach acid, which hinders digestion in the long term. Ten to fifteen percent of protein digestion depends on pepsin activity in the stomach and pepsin is only active in an acidic environment (i.e. when stomach acid is present). Stomach acid also acts as a defense against pathogenic bacteria colonizing the stomach and small intestine. While conventional drugs to offer immediate relief for the horse, they ultimately interfere with digestion and set the horse up for other long term problems.

Natural products that do not contain calcium, magnesium, or aluminum buffers are the best choice for the long-term prevention and treatment of ulcers. Luckily, there are several products on the market that fit this description. This month I describe three herbal supplements—Aloe Vera, Slippery Elm, and Licorice—that can provide natural ulcer relief. Next month I will describe a series of non-herbal supplements that also work well.

Aloe Vera Juice
Aloe Vera is classified as a mucilaginous and bitter herb. It is beneficial for the skin, stomach, and colon. Aloe’s major properties are as a cell proliferant, healer, demulcent (soothing agent), and allergy reducer. It is high in digestible fiber, which gives it the properties of lowering bowel transit time, absorbing toxins in the bowel, regulating colonic bacteria, and soothing and protecting the digestive tract.

Aloe also contains a complex mixture of mucopolysaccharides (complex sugars) that nourish cells and support them in replicating. This property is especially important for the healing of pre-existing ulcers. The polysaccharides also have an antibiotic action, which can be helpful for horses who have been on buffering agents or other medications that destroy healthy bacterial populations in the gut and allow pathogenic bacteria to multiply.

Good quality Aloe juice can be found in most health food stores. I find that the Aloe sold by the quart is generally less diluted than the Aloe sold in gallon containers.  Two to four ounces daily of the concentrated Aloe are usually adequate. You can also order high-quality Aloe juice here.

Slippery Elm
Slippery Elm is a mucilaginous herb with similar properties to Aloe. The inner bark of the Slippery Elm tree is used and the powdered form should be light in color. Dark-colored powder is likely contaminated by the astringent and fibrous outer bark. In addition to having intestinal benefits similar to that of Aloe, Slippery Elm bark helps regulate bacteria in the intestine. The amount of bark used depends on the consistency of the powder. You need less powder if it is finely ground. Slippery Elm is often combined with Aloe juice for best results. Two ounces of Aloe and one to two teaspoons of Slippery Elm should be give two to three times daily. The mixture can either be added to the horse’s feed or syringed directly into the mouth. You can also substitute the herb Marshmallow for Slippery Elm because Marshmallow is more widely available and has almost identical properties. The popularity of Slippery Elm for digestive upsets is causing some stress on the native populations of the Slippery Elm tree.

Aloe and Slippery Elm or Marshmallow are not only beneficial for ulcer cases but support digestion in general as well. They can all be fed long term with no negative   effects. In addition, they are very cost effective. Order Slippery Elm and Marshmallow online here.

Licorice
The root of the Licorice plant is classified as a bitter herb. It affects the lungs,digestive tract, and liver. It is also considered a general tonic.  Licorice is considered an expectorant, laxative, anti-inflammatory, anti-spasmodic, and anti-ulcer herb. Licorice owes its anti-ulcer properties to its content of therapeutic pigments known as flavanoids. These flavanoids can actually lower gastric secretions so this herb is not suitable for long-term prevention of ulcers.

Licorice has anti-bacterial activity so it is beneficial for digestive upsets secondary to pathogenic bacteria. It also has anti-fungal activity against such pathogens as candida albicans, which can overgrow and disrupt the delicate balance of bacteria in the intestine.

Licorice also has an anti-inflammatory property similar in strength to steroids so it can be very effective for bowel inflammation but it should be discontinued as soon as the condition is resolved.

I use a tincture (herbal extract in alcohol) form of the herb, and give 10 to 15 cc twice a day for up to 10 days. I then discontinue the herb or decrease to 3 to 6 cc a day if I am treating a stubborn bacterial or fungal outgrowth in the   intestine. Intestinal ulcers can show similar symptoms to stomach ulcers but they do not respond to acid blockers or buffers

 

Low Sugar/ Low Starch Horse Feeds

horse pellets Low Sugar/ Low Starch Horse Feeds

It seems many feed companies are jumping on the low sugar/ low starch bandwagon these days due to the apparent rise in conditions like Equine Metabolic Syndrome, Insulin Resistance (IR), and Cushing’s disease (PPID), but is every feed labeled ‘low starch’ safe for these horses?  The answer may surprise you.

Some equine nutrition experts recommend that the NSC (non-structural carbohydrates) value (usually calculated by adding WSC + starch) of the feed or hay be 12% or less, while others recommend it be 10% or less for horses with metabolic issues.

Let’s take for example the well-known feed made by Purina called ‘Safe Choice’.  At 22% sugar+starch content, I would say this is definitely not a safe choice for metabolic horses or even overweight horses.  So you can’t always trust the name or even the claims on the feed bag.

I feed a forage-based diet to my horses, but even forage can be unsafe for metabolic horses.  I get my hay and pasture tested to ensure that it has a low enough sugar and starch content for my two IR mares.  I’ve fed several different concentrates to my horses, but right now, I’m feeding Standlee’s Timothy hay pellets mixed with a little bit of Standlee’s Alfalfa pellets (soaked) as a carrier for my supplements.

Finding a truly low NSC feed can be difficult sometimes, but I’ve put together a list of low sugar/ low starch horse feeds that are generally considered safe for metabolic horses (testing at 12% or less NSC):

  • Ontario Deyhdrated Balanced Cubes
  • Poulin Carb-Safe
  • ADM Forage First Hay Replacer
  • ADM Staystrong Metabolic Pellets
  • Sterett Low Carb Complete
  • Blue Seal’s Carb Guard
  • Nuzu’s Stabul 1
  • LMF – Low Carb Complete Stage 1
  • Triple Crown Safe Starch Forage
  • Standlee Timothy Hay Pellets
  • Standlee Timothy/ Alfalfa Pellets
  • Lucerne Farms High Fiber Gold
  • Purina Wellsolve L/S

These feeds are also usually safe, but the NSC value can vary by brand:

  • Un-mollassed beet pulp (or thoroughly rinsed-soaked-rinsed mollassed beet pulp)
  • Alfalfa cubes/ pellets

Side note:  To lessen risk of choke, soak hay pellets and cubes for several minutes before feeding.  (I learned this the hard way!)

To know the NSC of a feed, you should contact the feed company and ask for the actual or analyzed NSC or send a sample of the feed to be tested by a company like Equi-Analytical.

I should also caution that some of these feeds (such as ADM’s Staystrong Metabolic Pellets) have been shown to have very high iron levels–this might be a concern for metabolic horses as well, as attested to in this article I wrote for The Horse.  Once again, getting your feed (or forage) tested is the only sure-fire way to know what’s in it!

Ta-ta!

PPID/ Cushing’s Disease in Horses

ppid1 PPID/ Cushings Disease in Horses

I recently wrote an article about a study that evaluated PPID-Pituitary Pars Intermedia Dysfunction (aka Cushing’s Disease) risk factors in horses and learned more about the condition that is becoming much more recognized among older horses these days.

Writing that article and then discussing PPID with a friend whose horse is showing several symptoms sparked my interest to learn more about this disease.  So I decided to participate in Dr. Juliet Getty’s recent teleseminar on Cushings. Her teleseminars on various topics related to equine nutrition are available for download and are very worthwhile, by the way.

So what exactly is PPID?  The condition is described as a neuro-degenerative disorder of aged horses (usually 15+), caused by an enlargement in the pars intermedia of the pituitary gland (which is housed in the base of the brain).  The pars intermedia is involved with the production of cortisol (stress hormone) and endorphins (pain-relieving hormones).

The pituitary gland, along with the hypothalamus, affects many regulatory functions in the body, such as metabolism, immune response, body temperature, hunger/ thirst, reproduction and growth, cardiovascular function, and stress response.  These functions can all be affected in a horse with PPID.

Causes

Much is still unknown about this disease, but there are several factors thought to cause PPID including:

  • Equine Metabolic Syndrome/ Insulin Resistance;
  • genetic factors;
  • oxidative stress;
  • chronic stress; and
  • toxins from the environment.

Symptoms

Symptoms of PPID can be subtle at first.  A horse may only show one or a few of the following symptoms:

  • Hirsutism (failure to shed or delayed shedding)–often the most common symptom;
  • Other changes in hair coat such as patchy shedding, changes in coat color, shaggy hair on legs, face, or neck;
  • Decreased performance or lethargy;
  • Muscle loss along topline and weight loss with ‘pot-belly’ still existing;
  • Laminitis, often occurring in the fall;
  • Insulin Resistance;
  • Regional fat deposits (neck crest, tail head, above eyes, sheath/ mammary area);
  • Excessive sweating or anhidrosis (failure to sweat);
  • Increased appetite;
  • Excessive urination;
  • Newly developed allergies/ hypersensitivity to vaccinations, flies, etc.; and
  • Changes in behavior (calmer or more excitable).

So as you can see, the symptoms of PPID can be numerous.  If you observe one or more of these signs in your horse, you may want to have him tested.

Diagnosis

Diagnosis of PPID can be a bit tricky, especially if your horse is in the early stages of the disease. According to some vets, hirsutism alone can be a reliable indicator of PPID.  Several diagnostic tests used include:

  • ACTH Test: Usually considered the most reliable indicator of PPID, this test measures the levels of adrenocorticotropic hormone in the horse.  Can be performed any time throughout the year, but must be adjusted to factor in seasonally high levels of ACTH during the fall.
  • Dexamethasone Suppression Test: Measures cortisol levels both before and after administration of dexamethasone, a steroid. (High cortisol levels after dexamethasone administration can indicate PPID.)  This test can be dangerous for some horses as it can trigger laminitis.  If your horse has a history of laminitis or you believe he may be at risk for developing it, ask your vet about performing a different test.  This test may not be reliable in the fall or early winter months.
  • Domperidone Response Test: This is a new test for PPID which uses domperidone (commonly used for decreased milk production and fescue toxicosis), a dopamine-inhibiting drug.  PPID horses will quickly double their ACTH production after domperidone administration while normal horses will maintain normal ACTH levels.  Many vets may not use this test yet, however.

Treatment

According to some vets and researchers, many older horses have PPID but do not show any adverse effects from the disease.  It’s possible that your horse will not need medication for PPID.  However, for those horses which are in the advanced stages or are noticeably affected by PPID, the treatment of choice is the drug, pergolide (Prascend).  Some horses will need to be kept on the drug year-round, while others may only need it seasonally.

Nutrition

Nutrition plays a very important role in treating PPID horses and can help to slow the progression of the disease.  Since these horses are often affected by IR as well, feeding a low-sugar/ starch diet is necessary.  Some guidelines for feeding include:

  • Feeding a low-sugar/ low-starch hay–you need to get your hay tested to know the sugar/ starch content.  Equi-Analytical can do this for you at a very reasonable cost. According to equine nutritionist, Dr. Juliet Getty, WSC + Starch should be less than 12% for PPID horses.
  • If your hay is higher than 12% WSC + Starch or you can’t get it tested, soak it in water for an hour or two before feeding it.  (I wrote an article on this, too!)
  • Feed low-sugar and starch feeds such as beet pulp, hay pellets, or a commercial feed like Triple Crown Lite. Note: Very few commercial feeds are fall below 12% sugar/starch content–do your research!
  • Minimize or eliminate grazing on pasture during the spring and fall (when night-time temps fall below 40 degrees F).  The safest time to graze is during the late night and early morning hours. Note: Some horses cannot tolerate any grazing during the spring/ fall though, as it will trigger laminitis.
  • Use a grazing muzzle to restrict grass intake.

Other nutritional components to consider for PPID horses include:

  • Antioxidants such as vitamins E and C; .
  • Omega-3′s such as flaxseed or chia;
  • Jiaogulan (Chinese herb) which can help to regulate stress; and
  • Adequate magnesium (Calcium: Magnesium ratio should be roughly 2:1).

For those of you interested in learning more about PPID, I highly recommend downloading Dr. Getty’s teleseminar on Cushings as well as joining Dr. Kellon’s ECIR discussion group.  They both provide some invaluable information on this disease.

Ta-ta!

Sources:

Diagnosing Equine Pituitary Pars Intermedia Dysfunction

Pituitary Pars Intermedia Dysfunction/ Equine Cushing’s Disease

 

 

Feeding the Equine Athlete

hershey Feeding the Equine Athlete

The following article was written by Dr. Juliet Getty, PhD, equine nutritionist and author of the book, Feed Your Horse Like a Horse. 

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Feeding the Top Performer

We all admire the equine athlete, the captivating blend of speed, control, grace and endurance. But the added stress of performance requires an optimal diet, with plenty of energy from carbohydrates and fats, high quality protein, adequate minerals, and vitamins.

Carbohydrates, the Cornerstone

Carbohydrates supply the foundation for energy needs and fuel quick power bursts. The most significant source of carbohydrates should be forage, fed free-choice to provide an amount equal to 2 to 3% of his body weight. This is central to your horses’ health. When forage is consistently available (beyond what you believe they’ll initially eat), horses will ultimately self-regulate their intake and eat only what their bodies need. Since the horse’s stomach continually produces acid, an empty stomach will lead to discomfort, ulcers, and irregular hormonal changes.

Besides forage, feed concentrated meals, usually a commercial “performance” mix. But don’t overdo it. The stomach has a relatively small capacity; a too-generous meal can lead to colic. Too much starch at one time also increases stomach acid, potentially leading to ulcers or exacerbating an existing ulceration. Large, starchy meals may trigger laminitis, and in young horses, high-starch diets can lead to osteopathic disorders.

And there are other things to be aware of: If starch is fed in excess without enough forage, the calcium-phosphorus imbalance can lead to tying up, irregular heartbeat, inability to regulate body temperature, impaired joint and bone development, or porous bones than can easily fracture. Limit the grain content of your horse’s diet to 2 lbs at a time (less for growing horses) and combine it with other feedstuffs (i.e. hay pellets, beet pulp, and fatty feeds) to create a meal of no more than 4 lbs. Remember proportion: Rely on forage for the majority of the horse’s feed.

Fats for Staying Power

Fat promotes endurance as another energy source, thereby sparing carbohydrates from being used up too quickly. Fat also prevents lactic acid buildup (lactic acid slows muscle recovery). And fat steadies the blood sugar and insulin response, which smoothes temperament.

But not all fats are the same:

  • Sources such as flax, chia, and fish oils are high in omega-3 fatty acids – these reduce pain and inflammation. They also protect the heart, lungs, joint, feet, and immune function, as well as regulate blood insulin levels.  Flaxseed meal and chia are powerhouses omega-3 source for all horses, especially athletes. When feeding flaxseed meal, choose a commercial product that has added calcium (to correct for the high phosphorus levels naturally found in flax). Chia is also high in phosphorus, so adding a high calcium feed, such as alfalfa, will balance out the calcium to phosphorus ratio.
  • Avoid overuse of popular fats (especially corn and soybean oils) – they are high in omega-6 fatty acids, which actually increase inflammation, and hence, pain.
  • Rice bran is an excellent fat source; here again, choose a product with added      calcium to balance its high phosphorus content. Rice bran oil contains gamma oryzanol, a natural steroid that promotes muscle development.

When switching to fat as an energy source, it’s best to “train” your horse’s body to choose fat for energy. To do this, increase the exercise intensity, giving your horse at least a month of hard training with extra fat in his diet.

Protein, the Body-Builder

Protein builds healthy muscle, bone, tendons, and blood, as well as hundreds of other body proteins involved in keeping systems in top working order. A grass-alfalfa hay mixture (no more than 50% alfalfa) will offer a high quality forage-based protein. Commercial feeds should supply between 14 and 16 percent crude protein; most producers boost overall protein quality by adding individual amino acids such as lysine, methionine, and tyrosine, as well as alfalfa and soybean meal.

Necessary Vitamins and Minerals

Grazing on healthy pasture is the best source of vitamins and minerals, but for many horses, hay is the likely forage source. Once fresh grass is cut, dried, and stored as hay, its nutritive value diminishes. For the performance horse, pay close attention to the following:

  • B vitamins for the nervous and digestive systems, and to derive energy from feed. Give a B-complex supplement without added iron, unnecessary to supplement in horses.
  • Vitamin A: Beta carotene, a precursor to vitamin A, is lost in hay. 1-2 lbs of carrots, spread out over the day, will satisfy the horse’s need—and his sweet tooth.
  • Vitamin D protects his bones and joints, and maintains muscle function. D is produced from sunlight, but horses without much sun exposure (or that are bathed or sprayed frequently) need to have added Vitamin D.
  • Vitamin C neutralizes damaging free radicals caused by intense exercise stress; promotes respiratory function; reduces inflammation; and prevents lung hemorrhages. C is necessary for collagen production, giving bones and joints their strength. The performance horse should have 3,000 to 10,000 mg of C daily.
  • Vitamin E and selenium: Depending on the work load, supplement 1-5 IU of vitamin E per lb of body weight, and up to 5 mg total selenium per day. Selenium is toxic in relatively small amounts so take time to calculate the total in      the whole diet.
  • Minerals:  Copper and zinc work together to produce healthy bones, cartilage, and connective tissue, improve stress tolerance and endurance. Too much zinc depresses copper absorption; a ratio of 4:1 zinc to copper is best. A 2:1 ratio of calcium to phosphorus is ideal, though horses can tolerate a ratio of up to 6:1. Magnesium is important for muscle function and a calm  disposition; the ratio to calcium should be no less than 1:2.

Most prepared mineral supplements are balanced. Never offer minerals free-choice; it is not proven that horses cannot discern their need, and overconsumption can result in systemic imbalances, deficiencies, and toxicity.

Salt, Electrolytes and Water

  • Your horse needs salt: 1 to 2.5 ounces daily (2 to 5 tablespoons). A plain, white salt block should always be available, but some horses do not lick them adequately. Table salt can be offered free choice and/or added to meals. Use non-iodized salt if your horse already is getting iodine in his feed.
  • Hay is the best chloride source (needed with salt) so offer plenty before exercise.
  • Electrolyte preparations should be added when your horse is exercised and/or heavily sweating, but they do not satisfy the entire requirement – the horse must be in proper sodium balance before using electrolytes. Electrolytes are added to simply replace what is lost from perspiration.
  • Adequate  salt encourages water consumption; even slight dehydration can negatively impact performance. Always offer clean, fresh water; salt and/or      electrolytes should never be added to the main water supply.

Optimal performance requires optimal nutrition. Provide a high-quality, healthful diet of forage, protein, omega-3 fatty acids, antioxidants and minerals to help your equine athlete meet his toughest performance challenges.

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For more information about Dr. Getty and to read her other articles, visit her website.  You can also read my interview with Dr. Getty here.

Equine Parasites: A Holistic Approach

pony Equine Parasites:  A Holistic Approach

The following article was written by Dr. Madalyn Ward, DVM and is re-posted with her permission.

You’ve heard of the 80/20 rule, right? Well, this rule applies to managing equine parasites just as much as it seems to apply everywhere else in life. Studies show that about 20% of horses in most populations are responsible for generating or “shedding” 80% of the parasite load.

What does that mean to you as a horse owner? It means that an over-the-counter deworming “annual pack” isn’t going to necessarily be a good fit for your horse. One size does NOT fit all, and you will need more information about your horse and his environment before you can take a holistic approach to managing the parasites in his life!

Equine Parasites: The Holistic Program

For healthy horses with strong immune systems and not under severe stress or work, I find that this holistic deworming program works well.

  1. Build a solid nutritional program by feeding Simplexity Essentials or APA Blend daily. This improves your horse’s overall digestion, health, and immunity.
  2. Feed 15 capsules of Simplexity’s Spectrabiotic (a full-spectrum probiotic) every new and full moon as a non-chemical dewormer.

Having said that, this program does not work for every horse. There are many factors that can affect your horse’s parasite load, and you will need to do some research to build a profile about your horse’s particular needs.

Equine Parasites: Factors to Consider

To take a truly holistic approach to deworming and managing equine parasites, you have to consider a number of factors:

  1. What category of “shedder” is your horse: high, moderate, or low?
  2. How strong is your horse’s immune system for limiting infection by parasites?
  3. How much contact does your horse have with equine parasites in his environment?
  4. What time of year is it?

Let’s take a closer look at each of these factors related to equine parasites.
1. What Kind of Shedder is Your Horse? When it comes to shedding parasite eggs, there are three categories: high, moderate, and low. The category is determined by the number of parasite eggs found per gram of feces (eggs per gram, or epg).
Low = Less than 200 epg Moderate = 200 to 500 epg High = more than 500 epg
Low shedders are able to contain parasite infections and shed few eggs in the pasture. These shedders can most likely be managed with the holistic program outlined above. Other options include homeopathic products and diatomaceous earth. These options may not work for high shedders.

To get an accurate picture of which category your horse is in, you will need to perform fecal tests in spring, when the weather is warm and moist. In addition, once you get on a deworming program, you will need to perform fecal tests every 3-4 months for a year or two to be sure your program works.

2. Your Horse’s Immunity First and foremost, let go of the notion of “zero tolerance” when it comes to equine parasites. Parasites are becoming more immune to chemical dewormers, and the presence of parasites isn’t all bad. Parasitism is a natural state in which the horse has evolved, and the presence of parasites can stimulate your horse’s immune system as long as there are no adverse effects.

Second, a horse with a strong immune system is less likely to be adversely affected by equine parasites. Some horses may need to be supported with additional probiotics, enzymes, and immune-enhancing products like ImmuSun.

3. Your Horse’s Environment I am definitely in favor of holistic deworming protocols, but this may not be an option for horses in the following situations:

  • boarding stables with high populations or where high shedders are not managed
  • pastures that are regularly dragged (spreads parasitic larva everywhere)
  • traveling to many destinations, as in the case of performance horses
  • in hard training or under high stress

In other words, if your horse either constantly comes into contact with equine parasites (any fairground is a perfect example) or is working under conditions of high stress, these holistic recommendations may not work.

4. The time of year most parasites thrive in the warm and moist times of the year–spring and fall. Moderate and high shedders may need to be dewormed chemically during these times of year, but may be fine with non-chemical dewormers the rest of the year.

Manage your horse’s living environment especially diligently during the spring and fall. Remove manure from stalls and paddocks. Allow dung beetles to break up manure piles in the pasture rather than dragging (and don’t overdo the chemical dewormers because this tends to inhibit dung beetle activity). Mow pastures and keep the grass short–this limits the number of places where parasites can hide.


About the Author

Madalyn Ward, DVM, owns Bear Creek Veterinary Clinic in Austin, Texas. She is certified in Veterinary Homeopathy and Equine Osteopathy. Memberships include American Veterinary Medical Association, American Association of Equine Practitioners, American Holistic Veterinary Medical Association, Texas Veterinay Medical Association and the Academy of Veterinary Homeopathy. She has authored several books and publishes the monthly newsletter, “Holistic Horsekeeping.”

For more information about Dr. Ward or to read more of her articles, visit her website.

Homemade Fly Spray Recipes for Horses

fly mask Homemade Fly Spray Recipes for Horses

It probably doesn’t come as much of a shock, but I’ve been making the switch from store-bought, pre-packaged products to homemade and all-natural products in many aspects of my daily living–from making my own natural laundry soap, dish detergent, and household cleaners to using only natural, whole foods and cooking everything from scratch (actually, this may be a shock for those of you that know me personally!)  Sure, it may require more work (especially in the cooking department), but I’m saving money and feeling much better about my reducing my impact on the environment.

I’m also making the transition to using more natural products for my horses and other animals.  This year, I plan to make my own fly spray.  I’ve done this before, but not with natural products.  I’ve put together a list of homemade fly spray recipes for horses–and most of them are all-natural.

Skin so Soft Recipe

  • 6 caps full of Avon’s Skin so Soft
  • 1 cup white vinegar
  • a good squirt of Ivory liquid soap
  • mix with about 20 ounces of water

Citrus Insect Repellant

Easy Fly Spray

(Above recipes borrowed/ adapted from Moniteau Saddle Club)

Natural Fly Spray (from The Prairie Homestead)

Eucalyptus Oil Fly Spray (from The Cowboy Way)

Dr. Mary Brennan’s Recipe (from EquiSearch)

* An important note about the citronella oil–you need to purchase 100% pure citronella oil from a health food store or online.  Do NOT buy citronella oil from hardware or other stores that is meant for lanterns, tiki torches, etc., as it is flammable and not safe to put on your horse’s skin.

Of course, be careful not to spray any of these fly sprays into your horse’s eyes and remember, just because a product is ‘natural’ doesn’t mean your horse can’t have a reaction to it–although it’s much less likely to occur than with products containing chemicals.  A fly mask (like the one picture at top) is always a good idea for keeping flies out of horse’s eyes and ears.  I tend to use these with my older horses (which the flies seem to bother more.)

If you have your own homemade fly spray for horses that you’ve used with success, please feel free to add it in the comments section.

If you’re not the do-it-yourself type of person, you can always buy a natural fly spray like the one from Green Horse Organics.  See this post to learn more about Nancy and her products.

Ta-ta!

Grazing Muzzles for Horses

DSC03767 Grazing Muzzles for Horses

“What is that thing?” is common question I get when friends come over and see one of my horses wearing a grazing muzzle.  While it may look Hannibal Lecter-esque, a grazing muzzle is actually a very helpful device if your horse is overweight or at risk for developing laminitis.  And since laminitis is the second-leading medical killer of horses, a grazing muzzle may just your horse’s life.

The grazing muzzle attaches to a halter.  It has a small hole which allows for drinking and some grazing, but your horse won’t be able to ‘pig out’ in it.  Three of my four horses wear a grazing muzzle for good part of the day (or night) from spring until fall.

While they may look cruel, I’ve found that my horses grow accustomed to them in a short amount of time each spring and do just fine in them.  I would feel far worse if my two insulin resistant horses over-ate and developed laminitis. The sugars in grass are highest during the day time (remember photosynthesis?), so I usually keep my muzzle-wearers off pasture by day and then turn them out with the muzzle at night.

DSC03711 e1366656802282 Grazing Muzzles for HorsesI use the Best Friend grazing muzzle since I’d heard good reviews about it from other horse owners.  Some of them come attached to a break-away halter, or you can buy a separate break-away halter to use with it.  I used a knife to enlarge the hole just a bit since it was pretty small.  I’ve found that the muzzles will last a year or two, but then need to be replaced.

DSC03766 Grazing Muzzles for Horses

I enlarged the hole with a knife just a bit.

If you’re using a grazing muzzle on your horse, there are some important things to keep in mind:

  1. Use a break-away halter.  Most horse owners know that halters and pastured horses don’t mix, and for good reason.  Horses can be seriously injured or even killed if they catch their halter on something and it won’t break.
  2. Make sure your grazing muzzle fits correctly and doesn’t rub. (I bought this fleece halter cover set and cut nose-pieces for where it tended to rub my horses.)  An average-sized horse will wear the ‘horse’ size, but a smaller horse, like Lee Lee (who is 14 hands), may need a ‘Cob’ size.  You should be able to see the horse’s lips when you look through the hole at the bottom of the muzzle.
  3. Gradually increase your horse’s time spent in the muzzle so they can become acclimated to it.
  4. Inspect your muzzle regularly to make sure the hole hasn’t gotten too big–the rubber can be worn away after time.
DSC03768 Grazing Muzzles for Horses

This one is just about worn out.

DSC03765 Grazing Muzzles for Horses

This one is completely worn out!

According to this study-based article, a grazing muzzle reduced a pony’s grass intake by up to 85%.  This is important because, unmuzzled, a horse can potentially eat his daily requirement of grass in 5-8 hours, leaving plenty of time for over-eating.

For more information on laminitis, see this Q&A with Jenny Edwards, author of the e-book, Equine Laminitis.

Ta-ta!

Q&A with Dr. Robert Cook, Creator of ‘Dr. Cook’s Bitless Bridle’ (Part 3)

cook31 Q&A with Dr. Robert Cook, Creator of Dr. Cooks Bitless Bridle (Part 3)Robert Cook, FRCVS, PhD graduated as a veterinarian in 1952, from the Royal Veterinary College, London UK. Subsequently he earned a Fellowship of the Royal College of Veterinary Surgeons and gained a PhD from Cambridge. Apart from six years in practice and eight years as a senior scientist at the Equine Research Station of the Animal Health Trust, Newmarket, UK, he has been a clinician, teacher and researcher at university schools of veterinary medicine in the UK and USA. He was appointed Professor of Surgery Emeritus of Tufts University, Cummings School of Veterinary Medicine in 1994. His focus of research is diseases of the mouth, ear, nose and throat of the horse. He became Chairman of BitlessBridle Inc. in 2000.

This post is the final segment of my Q&A session with Dr. Cook.  To read the entire interview, see Parts 1 & 2 as well.

Do most horses need an adjustment period when switching from traditional bridle with a bit to the bitless bridle?

No.Horses make the adjustment easily, quickly and with obvious relief. A few riders may take five minutes longer but most riders are entirely happy on day one about their bitless maiden voyage. After a week they will often vow to never use a bit again.

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Will the bitless bridle work for any riding discipline? Is it better-suited for certain disciplines?

On the evidence of welfare, safety and effectiveness, the bitless bridle ‘works’ for every discipline, including driving. It cannot currently be used for some disciplines in competition but this is because administrator’s rules have not yet been updated in the light of published research. I presume that, after 15 years, they have heard of the bridle, seen it work and consulted their advisors. Being responsible for the safety of both horse and rider I imagine that they will also have read the primary source literature. Yet only the Dutch national federation has taken steps to give the new bridle a trial.

In 2009, the United States Equestrian Federation rejected a rule change proposal filed by a member to allow the crossunder bitless bridle for dressage. Subsequently, at the USDF Convention 2009, Hilda Gurney talked about an experiment she did using a regular bridle and the crossunder bitless bridle on several of her horses. She found that they went ‘no differently’ in the bitless bridle and encouraged everyone to be open minded in the discussion about whether they should be legal to use when showing. Sadly, four years later there has been no word from the USDF or the USEF of any movement on this topic.

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Fig 12. The double bridle, mandated by the FEI for upper level dressage

Sport horse organizations and racing jurisdiction worldwide are ‘big ships’ and need time to change direction. Yet these organizations do change their rules on an annual basis, so I have to wonder why there is this delay in introducing a simple rule that could so advance welfare and safety. Science too has its rules. They are not written down but this is how science works. Hypotheses and research results based on observation or experiment are submitted to peer-reviewed journals and, if accepted are published. Other researchers can repeat the experiments or bring forward their own observations and hypotheses. If they have the evidence, they will subsequently publish a refutation. The original authors may publish a response or other researchers will enter the field with additional evidence to support or refute. In this way, a dialogue takes place and the topic is on the table for discussion. After a period of time, if the original hypothesis and results cannot be refuted, the hypothesis is accepted at the present state of knowledge and provides a foundation for action.

Since my first peer-reviewed article in 1999, indicting the bit, I have published many more both in peer-reviewed and other journals. None of these articles have been refuted yet ample time has passed. It is my contention that members of committees who have the responsibility to oversee rule changes should themselves either file rule changes to approve the crossunder bitless bridle for dressage and other disciplines or publish their reasons for not doing so. At the very least, a dialogue should be taking place.

The FEI mandate use of the bit for dressage and some other disciplines and have done for nearly a century (Fig. 12). This would be regrettable enough if the inhumanity was confined to FEI competitions. Unfortunately, FEI rules are widely adopted by national federations and followed by Pony Clubs and 4H organizations. The result is that unskilled adults and youngsters who wish to compete are obliged to use a Bronze Age signal that is harmful, dangerous and, in many countries, illegal.

Click here for more on the legal and ethical aspects of inflicting avoidable pain.

To read my article, “New tool benefit denied by an old rule: Rider/horse safety trumped by tradition” click here.

The current crisis in USA racing over the debate as to whether or not the continued use of Salix on race day should be permitted can be settled by acknowledging the correct answer to the question, ‘What causes ‘bleeding’?’ As the evidence points overwhelmingly to bit-induced asphyxia, a simple rule change to permit the crossunder bitless bridle is all that is required. The same approach is recommended to racing jurisdictions worldwide. Removal of the bit would do much to prevent catastrophic accidents on the racetrack, reduce wastage and improve the image of the sport. To read my article,“Bitted mouths cause waterlogged &‘bleeding’ lungs: Racehorses need management, not medication” click here.

For another article about “The Pain-free harness horse: Promoting performance by demoting the bit” click here.

cook8 Q&A with Dr. Robert Cook, Creator of Dr. Cooks Bitless Bridle (Part 3)

For more information about Dr. Cook’s Bitless Bridle, visit his website.

Q&A with Dr. Robert Cook, Creator of ‘Dr. Cook’s Bitless Bridle’ (Part 2)

cook31 Q&A with Dr. Robert Cook, Creator of Dr. Cooks Bitless Bridle (Part 2)

Robert Cook, FRCVS, PhD graduated as a veterinarian in 1952, from the Royal Veterinary College, London UK. Subsequently he earned a Fellowship of the Royal College of Veterinary Surgeons and gained a PhD from Cambridge. Apart from six years in practice and eight years as a senior scientist at the Equine Research Station of the Animal Health Trust, Newmarket, UK, he has been a clinician, teacher and researcher at university schools of veterinary medicine in the UK and USA. He was appointed Professor of Surgery Emeritus of Tufts University, Cummings School of Veterinary Medicine in 1994. His focus of research is diseases of the mouth, ear, nose and throat of the horse. He became Chairman of BitlessBridle Inc. in 2000.

(This post is a continuation of Part 1 of my Q&A session with Dr. Cook.)

As a vet and researcher, what type of damage have you observed that resulted from the use of a bit?

Some short questions require book-length answers and this is one of them. To answer briefly, the types of damage to the horse can be described as physical, mental, behavioral, and physiological, though there is considerable overlap between all categories. Likewise, ‘damage’ to the rider can be described as psychological, economical and medical.

Effect on the Horse:

a) Physical damage: The direct mechanical damage that one or more metal rods can inflict on the sensitive tissues of a horse’s mouth includes:

  • lip sores, cuts and sarcoids from longitudinal stretching of the lips
  • laceration and amputation of the tongue
  • gingivitis from pressure on unerupted wolf teeth in the lower jaw
  • a sore mouth from bruising of the gum over the bars of the mouth
  • bruising of the roof of the mouth
  • bone spurs on the bars of the mouth
  • star fractures of the bars and the shedding of dead bone (sequestra)
  • erosion and shedding of the first cheek tooth in the lower jaw
  • chip fractures of the first lower cheek teeth
  • periodontal disease; and
  • damage to the jaw, from fractures and osteomyelitis.

To read my article on bone and dental damage, click here.

cook15 Q&A with Dr. Robert Cook, Creator of Dr. Cooks Bitless Bridle (Part 2)

Fig. 6. The first cheek tooth in the lower jaw shows an example of the dental damage that occurs when a horse repeatedly grabs the bit and erodes its grinding surface. The bit has also been pressing hard against the front edge of this tooth and flattening its normal ‘prow.’ Such a horse may well have been labeled as a ‘puller’ and been said to have ‘leaned on the bit’ or to have had a ‘hard mouth.’ (Specimen photographed courtesy of the American Museum of Natural History)

 cook162 Q&A with Dr. Robert Cook, Creator of Dr. Cooks Bitless Bridle (Part 2)

Fig. 7. Close-up of the bars of the mouth. The canine teeth are on the right of the picture and the first cheek teeth on the left. The lower bar shows several large bit-induced bone spurs and the other bar shows one smaller spur. Lesions like these can be likened to ‘splints’ on a horse’s shin but are far more painful. (Specimen photographed courtesy of the American Museum of Natural History)

b) Mental damage: This includes acute pain, chronic pain and fear. Acute pain is inflicted by the bit during the generation and maintenance of all the lesions listed above. Chronic pain is the neuralgia that daily use of the bit sets up in the trigeminal nerve (tic doloureux), so often responsible for head tossing, muzzle rubbing and other signs of the headshaking syndrome. Fear is the mental stress, nervousness, apprehension, shying and spookiness triggered by the anticipation of pain.

c) Behavioral damage: The pain and fear of mental damage manifests itself in a hundred and one different ways in the ridden horse’s behaviour but also in (unwanted) behavior prior to and after riding. Examples of some of the more dangerous under-saddle signs include bolting, bucking, balking and rearing. A more comprehensive listing is available here and the full text of this article on the prevention of accidents is available here.

58 controlled experiments were carried out between 2002 and 2008, in which riders compared the ridden behavior of a horse in a bitted bridle with that in a crossunder bitless bridle. Using a checklist of 82 possible signs of pain and distress, the sign most frequently eliminated by removing the bit was of a horse that “hates the bit” i.e., chews on the bit. All horses showed markedly fewer signs of pain and distress when bitless. The summated numbers were bitted 1643 and bitless 202, an overall improvement of 88%. The median number of pain and distress signs that each horse exhibited when bitted was 24 – when bitless 1 (unpublished material).

Most of the behavioral signs of pain result in reduced performance. A different 2008 experiment compared bitted and bitless performance. Four riders that had never previously used a crossunder bitless bridle, rode four horses that had never before been ridden in one. In the first four minutes of removing the bit (in the second ride of a simple dressage test) they increased their scores by an average of 75%. Their score changed from a bitted average of ‘quite bad’ (3.7) to a bitless average of ‘satisfactory’ (6.4). To read the peer-reviewed article click here and for a video of the experiment click here.

d) Physiological damage:  The bit triggers digestive responses when what are needed in the exercising horse are respiratory, cardiovascular and musculo-skeletal responses. Essentially, it triggers a conflict between eating and exercising. The physiological requirements for eating include a head down position, quiet breathing, an open mouth, tongue and jaw movement, salivation and swallowing. For exercising, the requirements include a raised head, rapid breathing, sealed lips, a closed mouth, an immobile tongue and jaw, a relatively dry mouth and no swallowing. A young horse at liberty in a field, interchanging between grazing and playing, can switch between these two requirements effortlessly and smoothly. Too often, the same horse when bitted and ridden presents a very different picture. Its lips are parted by the bit and its mouth may, at intervals, be frankly open. Tongue and jaw movements may be prominent and salivation may be so effusive that saliva drools from the mouth and foams. As a result, breathing is made difficult and the intake of oxygen reduced, triggering a cascade of problems affecting the lungs, legs and heart.

The anatomical ‘damage’ in the throat that sets all this in motion can be best understood with the help of the diagram in Fig. 8. The bit breaks what should be an airtight-seal at the lips and a very necessary oral vacuum is eliminated (Figs 9-11). The head and neck may be flexed, so the soft walls of the throat are flaccid. Under these conditions, aggravated by tongue and jaw movement and even by actual swallowing reflexes, the soft palate gets sucked upwards during rapid inhalation and obstructs the throat (Fig. 11b). This, in my opinion, is the cause of dorsal displacement of the soft palate (DDSP), a physiological scourge of the bitted horse. Again, in my opinion, DDSP is the cause of bleeding from the lungs, the so-called exercise-induced pulmonary hemorrhage (EIPH) better named as negative pressure pulmonary edema (NPPE). Together, DDSP and NPPE, these two side effects of the bit, represent a multimillion dollar problem for the racing industry, currently unsolved by Salix. To read my article, “What causes soft palate problems and bleeding in racehorses?: The answer is on the tip of the horse’s tongue” click here and click also on the two links at the end of this post.

breathing swallowing Q&A with Dr. Robert Cook, Creator of Dr. Cooks Bitless Bridle (Part 2)

Fig. 8: Showing how the soft palate and cartilages of the voice box act as switch plates allowing the throat to be configured for either exercising or eating (rapid breathing or swallowing). To simplify the diagram for the purpose of emphasising the changes in the throat, air space is shown in the mouth, the oral part of the throat and the esophagus (gullet). This space is severely limited when grazing and eliminated when exercising (see Figs 9 – 11)

Key:

AC = arytenoid cartilages (‘flappers’) of the voice box (larynx)

E = epiglottis

LP = laryngopharynx (the food channels on each side of the voice box that enable a horse to graze yet still breathe quietly)

NP = nasopharynx (the respiratory part of the throat)

OI = ostium intrapharyngium (a ‘button-hole’ in the soft palate, into which the voice box fits like a grommet except when swallowing)

OP = oropharynx (the oral part of the throat)

SP = soft palate

cook10 Q&A with Dr. Robert Cook, Creator of Dr. Cooks Bitless Bridle (Part 2)

Fig.9. Anatomy of the head, showing the configuration of the throat for quiet breathing. The throat serves two masters, breathing and swallowing. For breathing, the size of the respiratory part of the throat (nasopharynx) is maximised at the expense of the oral part of the throat (oropharynx). The double-ended arrow, depicting the airway, has its front end in the throat and its back end in the voice box (larynx).

 cook13 Q&A with Dr. Robert Cook, Creator of Dr. Cooks Bitless Bridle (Part 2)

Fig, 10. The same diagram as Fig. 9 but showing the sealed lips that, after a swallow, enable the running horse when bitless to create a vacuum in those compartments shown in red.

cook12 Q&A with Dr. Robert Cook, Creator of Dr. Cooks Bitless Bridle (Part 2)

Fig. 11a. Normal configuration of the throat for running in a horse at liberty. The poll is extended, the throat is stretched, and the soft palate is ‘vacuum-packed’ on the root of the tongue and around the voice box. There is an airtight seal at the lips and between the two parts of the throat.

cook14 Q&A with Dr. Robert Cook, Creator of Dr. Cooks Bitless Bridle (Part 2)

Fig. 11b. Abnormal configuration of the throat when running in a bitted bridle. The bit (yellow dot) has broken the lip seal, allowing air to enter the oral part of the throat. The soft palate is unstable and, in this diagram, is shown in an elevated position that is only appropriate to a phase of swallowing. The airway is severely obstructed at the junction of nasal cavity and throat (red dots).

Apart from the above conflict between eating and exercising there is another major conflict in the bitted horse between breathing and striding. At liberty, the cantering horse takes one stride for every breath. There is a synchrony between the two, called respiratory-locomotory coupling. . But when a bit interferes with breathing this synchrony can be lost. From 82 signs of pain and distress eliminated by removing the bit in the controlled experiment cited above, 34 (41%) were signs that in one way or another impacted a horse’s stride and way of going. The signs ranged from the regrettable, e.g., lack of finesse and reluctance to change leads) to downright dangerous, e.g., stumbling, freezing, bucking, rearing and bolting.

The 82 questions on which the above experiment was based did not include the catastrophic accidents that occur on the racetrack as the result of bit-induced shortage of breath and premature fatigue. Bleeding from the lungs and the appearance of blood at the nostrils or in the windpipe is only the outward and visible sign of a much more serious inward disaster. Bit-induced asphyxia causes massive waterlogging of the lung (pulmonary edema). That red blood cells and edema fluid gets sucked into the small airways of the lung is only one effect of this problem. Not only is a racehorse unable to obtain all the oxygen it needs for running due to the obstruction in its throat but also, because the lungs become waterlogged, it is unable to fully absorb the oxygen it does get. So a racehorse builds up an oxygen debt and is unable to prevent a build-up of carbon dioxide. The heart muscle can no longer circulate fully oxygenated blood to the muscles of the legs, nor to the muscles or respiration, and may even be short of oxygen itself. Adding insult to injury, the heart has to work harder to pump blood around the body to its lungs and legs because of the resistance to circulation imposed by congestion in its lungs. Likewise the work of breathing is increased for the same reason, as the lungs are no longer compliant. Little wonder that a ‘bleeder’ (99% of racehorses are affected to varying degrees) has difficulty in breathing and striding. Premature fatigue, exhaustion, breakdowns, falls, and fractures may follow. The end result of bit damage can be sudden death or euthanasia.

To sum up, the bit damages the digestive, respiratory, nervous, cardiovascular and musculo-skeletal systems.

Effect on the Rider:

a) Psychological ‘Damage’: What many riders describe as ‘bad’ or ‘unwanted’ behaviour on the part of their horse, and for which they may blame their horse, is generally normal behaviour, albeit inconvenient and even dangerous for the rider. Mostly, it is a normal response to pain and fear, largely bit-induced. From the above controlled experiment, not more than 12% of the signs of pain and distress were caused by some factor other than the bit. The 88% bit-induced behavioural responses are frequently the cause of much rider unhappiness. This is expressed in a slew of emotions from self-doubt about their riding skills, disappointment, frustration, reluctance to ride, fear, and even anger with the horse, to a state of mind in which the rider is ready to sell the horse or simply give up riding altogether.

b) Economic ‘Damage’: The staggering ‘cost’ of the bit to the racing industry has already been mentioned but trail riders and pleasure riders also incur bit-related expense for rehabilitation and replacement. For riders who train, compete and sell horses, the cost of poor performance can be considerable. To see a cost/benefit comparison for a bit and bitless rein-aid, click here http://www.bitlessbridle.com/CostBenefit.pdf

c) Medical ‘Damage’: Horse riding is recognized by insurance companies as being more dangerous than motor cycling. Bit-induced accidents, which are frequent, cause injuries ranging from broken collar bones to broken necks and sudden death.

For a summary of the benefits of the crossunder bitless bridle for both horse and rider, click here.

For more information about Dr. Cook’s Bitless Bridle, visit his website.

Q&A with Dr. Robert Cook, Creator of the ‘Dr. Cook Bitless Bridle’ (Part 1)

cook31 Q&A with Dr. Robert Cook, Creator of the Dr. Cook Bitless Bridle (Part 1)

Robert Cook, FRCVS, PhD graduated as a veterinarian in 1952, from the Royal Veterinary College, London UK. Subsequently he earned a Fellowship of the Royal College of Veterinary Surgeons and gained a PhD from Cambridge. Apart from six years in practice and eight years as a senior scientist at the Equine Research Station of the Animal Health Trust, Newmarket, UK, he has been a clinician, teacher and researcher at university schools of veterinary medicine in the UK and USA. He was appointed Professor of Surgery Emeritus of Tufts University, Cummings School of Veterinary Medicine in 1994. His focus of research is diseases of the mouth, ear, nose and throat of the horse. He became Chairman of BitlessBridle Inc. in 2000.

What led you to develop your bitless bridle?

The crossunder feature of bridle design is one that has been known to a few horsemen for many generations but has never become mainstream. It appears, for example, in the bitted McCleod bridle, patented in 1894. As part of a bitless bridle I have traced its existence back to the 1950s but it is probably much older. George ‘Ink’ Grimsley of Spink Colorado was making a few of these bitless bridles in the 1950s for ‘bulldogging’ friends on the Philadelphia rodeo circuit (Fig. 1). They needed a bridle that prevented their horses’ mouths being damaged by eager riders and they turned to him for help. Leon Manchester of Fairhill, Maryland, who showed me the Grimsley bridle in 2005, was one of ‘Inks’ friends (Fig. 2). These were hand-made bridles – never mass-produced or marketed. Perhaps George Grimsley was a descendant of the family that gave its name to the Grimsley saddle, which would explain his reputation for making bridles. In 1874, the Grimsley saddle was the enlisted man’s saddle in the Mexican War.

cook5 221x300 Q&A with Dr. Robert Cook, Creator of the Dr. Cook Bitless Bridle (Part 1)

Fig. 1: George ‘Ink’ Grimsley

cook6 213x300 Q&A with Dr. Robert Cook, Creator of the Dr. Cook Bitless Bridle (Part 1)

Fig. 2. Leon Manchester at 81 with the Grimsley bridle

In the 1990’s, Allan Buck of Ramona, California attempted to market a bridle that was essentially the same as the Grimsley bridle. In 1997, I was introduced to Buck and his Spirit Bridle by Lady Sigourney Richmond-Darbey, a dressage pupil of his who had read my book “Speed in the Racehorse: the Airflow Factors.” She recognized that my research might provide the evidence Buck needed to persuade the horse-owning public of the benefits of the crossunder design. I liked the bridle and for a couple of years was glad to help Buck promote it. Sadly, for reasons that had nothing to do with the bridle, his venture fell apart. In 1999, to prevent the concept from dying, I modified the design and marketed it myself through a company I already owned.

Some people may find it strange that a retired academic, at 82, should be selling an item of tack but this is simply a continuation of a veterinarian’s work. My research tells me that the bit causes much pain and distress, over 40 diseases, and countless accidents. As a surgeon, I treated one disease at a time but by providing an alternative to the bit I can treat and prevent dis-eases by the score.

Click here for more information on this question.

 

How does the bitless bridle differ from a hackamore or bosal?

Traditional bitless bridles depend on their ability to cause pain or the threat of pain, whereas the crossunder bitless bridle is virtually incapable of causing pain. It also provides a fully comprehensive method of signaling and is applicable to all disciplines, both Western and English. Being painless and more effective, it is also humane and safer (Figs. 3 & 4).

cook2 300x215 Q&A with Dr. Robert Cook, Creator of the Dr. Cook Bitless Bridle (Part 1)

Fig. 3. The Dr.Cook® bridle. The diagram on the right is a worm’s eye view. The gradation in color shows how the pressure of strap on skin, though never painful, is greatest over the nose, less under the chin and along the cheek, and least of all at the poll. Pressure and release on one rein (thick arrow) nudges across the bridge of the nose and up the opposite side of the head from E to A providing a cue for steering. Intermittent pressure on both reins provides a cue for slow and stop.

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Fig. 4. The bridle correctly fitted

‘Hackamore’ is a description used for any bridle the action of which depends on nose rather than mouth pressure. Collectively, they have been referred to as ‘nose bridles.’ But there are actually three categories of such bridles: bosal hackamores, mechanical hackamores, and sidepulls (including rope halters and jumping hackamores).

A summary comment on how the crossunder bitless bridle differs from traditional hackamores is to say that bosal and mechanical hackamores depend on neck-reining for steering. Sidepulls with rigid or thin nosebands, though less painful than a bit, have similar disadvantages to a bit, especially in their limitations as a cue for stopping. For a more detailed response to the question, click here.

Though the question asks for a differentiation of the crossunder bitless bridle from the traditional hackamores, the greatest indication for use of the crossunder is as an alternative to the bit (Fig. 5). Click here for an article on its differentiation from the bit.

And here for why members of the Pony Club and 4H organizations should not be compelled to use a bit.

And here are two more documents explaining why the crossunder bitless bridle would be good for racing:

cook11 Q&A with Dr. Robert Cook, Creator of the Dr. Cook Bitless Bridle (Part 1)

Fig. 5. From Edward Mayhew’s “The Illustrated Horse Doctor” (1860). The caption read,
“Various modes of forming that which all men speak of as a ‘good mouth’”

For more information about Dr. Cook’s bitless bridle, see his website.

 

Q&A with Jenny Edwards, Author of ‘Equine Laminitis’

laminitis ebook cover Q&A with Jenny Edwards, Author of Equine Laminitis

Jenny Edwards is the owner and creator of All Natural Horse Care, a site devoted to informing horse owners about holistic horsekeeping.  A former UK resident, Jenny now resides in Kingston Ontario, Canada. She has been involved with horses for most of her life and has studied natural hoof care extensively.  She provides natural trimming services in her area and recently published an e-book entitled, Equine Laminitis.

 

What led you to write your e-book, Equine Laminitis?

It has been on my mind for a few years, but the final push came when I was called out in December, 2012 to see a horse that had come down with laminitis the previous March. The poor horse was still in severe pain and the owner was at the point of thinking she would have to have her put to sleep. The horse was under regular vet supervision, on high levels of bute, and had also had her hooves nerve blocked, yet after seven months she was still a pathetic sight –barely able to stand and in so much pain. The vet had done blood work and x-rays and she was diagnosed with Insulin Resistance and had 15° rotation in one hoof and 12° in the other. However, her feet were in terrible shape and whilst she had been taken off pasture, she was still getting too much sugar through feeding unrestricted hay.

I come across this scenario so often and it is very frustrating as there is no need for the horses to have to suffer this much just because of a lack of awareness. So I decided to write a basic but thorough, easy to read book that could help owners understand the issues surrounding laminitis. I strongly feel that by catching it in the early stages we can prevent so much suffering for both the horse and the owner. Laminitis is the second highest cause of death for horses and yet many of these deaths could so easily have been prevented.

With just two trims over an eight week period, a pair of hoof boots, and tightening up the diet, the horse mentioned above was able to be taken completely off bute and was much more comfortable moving around. After her third trim she started trotting of her own free will in her dry lot and the sparkle is back in her eye.

 

Is laminitis something that all horse owners should be concerned about or just owners of Insulin Resistant (IR) or Cushings horses?

Yes, all horses can suffer from laminitis so it is always good to know what to look for.  However IR and Cushings are on the rise and there is still a lack of education in the vet and farrier communities about recognizing the early signs of these two conditions. So my aim with this book is to help educate owners so they know what to look for and help them catch it in the early stages before damage occurs.

 

You talk a little bit about ‘sub-clinical’ laminitis in the book. Can you briefly explain what it is and an owner might know if their horse is suffering from sub-clinical laminitis?

Sub-clinical means that the laminitis is at a stage where it would not show up in the clinic ie on x-ray or through physical examination.  Horses suffering from sub-clinical laminitis can show signs such as unusual laziness, unwillingness to take a canter lead, and/or tenderness on hard surfaces or rough ground.

 

What role does proper hoof care play in preventing laminitis?

Whilst it is incorrect to say that proper hoof care can prevent laminitis, I do believe that it plays a huge role in lessening the chances of rotation and/or sinking should the horse get laminitis. When the hoof is kept in optimal shape there is less mechanical strain on the lamina which encourages a stronger connection between the hoof wall and coffin bone which in turn makes it is less susceptible to insult.

 

What are the most important steps owners can take in preventing laminitis if their horse is at risk?

For horses which are at risk of metabolic issues it is vital to ensure that their intake of sugars is closely monitored, their hooves are regularly trimmed and they get regular exercise. Depending on how sensitive they are this can mean pulling them off pasture completely and feeding a low-sugar hay instead, or for the milder cases just using a grazing muzzle to limit the amount of grass they eat may be enough. The type of trim the horse gets is also very important as small adjustments can make the world of difference.

 

Where can your e-book be purchased?

The e-book can be purchased at www.equine-laminitis.com

 

 

 

Green Horse Organics Liniment Winner

liniment2 Green Horse Organics Liniment Winner

I’m a little late posting this, but last week, a random winner was chosen from the comments on this post to win the Green Horse Organics all-natural ‘Healing Touch’ liniment (which can be used on horses or people by the way!)

Congratulations to Sherry Hill for winning the giveaway!

A big thanks to Nancy Lamb, owner of Green Horse Organics, as well.

Make sure to check back soon for another giveaway from Green Horse Organics!

 

Ta-ta,

Casie

Estimating Your Horse’s Weight

Do you know how much your horse weighs?  You should!  Even if you don’t have access to a heavy-duty scale, you can estimate your horse’s weight with a fairly simple formula.

It’s important to have a pretty good estimate of your horse’s weight for feeding the proper amount of hay and conentrates, not to mention for administering supplements, de-wormers, and medications. Here’s how it’s done:

First of all, you will need a measuring tape–such as the kind a seamstress would use. Tie your horse up or have someone hold him.

You will need to take two measurements:

  •  Body Length:  point of shoulder to point of buttock (which is described as “the highest point of the buttock at the extreme rear of the animal”)
  • Heart Girth: circumference of chest just behind the withers and just behind the elbow (which is at a slight diagonal)

horse weight measurements Estimating Your Horses Weight

You might want to take each measurement a couple of times to make sure it’s accurate.  Also, make sure your horse is standing fairly square (and still!) when you take the length measurement.

Then, plug your measurements into this formula:

weight in lbs = (heart girth2 x body length) / (330)

Or, if you prefer to work in metric, you can use this similar formula that I wrote about in an article for The Horse a couple of years ago:

weight in kilograms = ( heart girth2 x body length) / (11,880 cm3)

I measure my horses every spring to estimate their weights before I balance their diets, and I’ve found that they do fluctuate a little.  Last year, I had the chance to get Hershey weighed at a university veterinary hospital and I was happy to find that I’d been fairly close with my estimates.

Ta-ta!

 

 

 

 

Euthanasia and Horses: Knowing When its Time

This post will be different and much more personal than most of my other posts on The Naturally Healthy Horse.  It might be difficult for some of you to read, too.  But deciding when euthanasia is the best option for your equine companion is something many of us will have to deal with at some point in time.  For me, it was last week.

The thought of having to euthanize one of my horses has always been in the back of my mind–especially since I have several senior horses.  It’s a decision most of us dread.  How will I know if it’s really time?  I don’t want to act too soon, but I don’t want to prolong unnecessary suffering. These are common thoughts, I’m sure.  But sometimes circumstances occur that make the decision easier for us.  This was the case for me, fortunately.

My oldest horse, P.K., had steadily gone downhill this last winter (losing weight and showing signs of depression) and was beginning to suffer from chronic colic.  Despite my best efforts to help her gain weight, she continued to decline.  I was prepared several weeks ago to make the decision when she colicked, but she recovered and seemed to be doing better.

Then last Wednesday, she colicked again.  This time, it was worse.  I felt I’d been given a sign, and I knew it was time.  I called my vet out.

Surprisingly, I was able to maintain a sense of peace once the decision had been made.  I still  had an injectable pain-killer from the last episode when the vet had been out, so I gave it to her.  I brushed her and said my good-byes.  My husband stayed with P.K. and the vet while she was put to sleep.  I knew I couldn’t handle that part.

P.K. was 25 and I felt good knowing I had given her the best life I possibly could.  She is now buried on our property, along with three other horses.

So how does one know when the time is right?  Aside from the obvious, traumatic injuries, here are some guideposts that might help you make a decision.  Of course, every situation is unique, but euthanasia may be the best option when:

  • Any chronic condition exists that fails to respond to veterinary or supportive care, and as a result, the horse is in continuous discomfort;
  • The horse is not eating and showing no interest in eating over a period of time;
  • A chronic condition exists that interferes with your horse’s ability to stand or move;
  • The horse has become despondent and depressed; doesn’t show a will to live;
  • The horse is in obvious, chronic pain.

Choosing to euthanize a horse is likely one of the most gut-wrenching decisions a horse owner will ever have to make.  But I feel it is often a compassionate decision.  It is a way to cut short our beloved horse’s as well as our own suffering.

I found that focusing on the positives–the good life you’ve given your horse, the joy the horse has given you, the beauty of the never-ending cycle of life and death–made the situation easier for me.  Also during any time of loss, I try to remember Lord Alfred Tennyson’s words, “Tis better to have loved and lost than never to have loved at all.”

Rest in peace, The PK Kid (1988-2013).

pk Euthanasia and Horses:  Knowing When its Time

DSC03317 300x225 Euthanasia and Horses:  Knowing When its Time

Ta-ta,

Casie

 

Q & A with Nancy Lamb, Owner of Green Horse Organics

fly spray Q & A with Nancy Lamb, Owner of Green Horse Organics

Nancy Lamb, who’s had a lifelong passion for horses, is the founder and owner of Green Horse Organics, a small, family-based company that creates all-natural, organic fly spray as well as several other all-natural products for horses and humans.  Nancy’s background includes studying aromatherapy, essential oils, and herbs, and she is currently studying Ayurveda healing.  She has shown horses in western horsemanship, showmanship, halter, pleasure, equitation, trail, western riding–winning state, national, and world titles.  She currently holds a show judge’s card as well.  

How did you become interested in ‘natural’ horse products?

I became interested in natural horse products about 10 years ago when I found a natural fly spray in a popular tack catalog and promptly ordered it. I had grown up with the toxic traditional horse sprays and we did not know how harmful they were for us. Well, I was disappointed to find it did not work at all.  Then I ordered several others with pretty much the same effect–similar to spraying water on your horse. I thought about this a while because I have always had an interest in organic/natural care for myself and family.  I decided hey, why can’t I figure this out myself?

So I studied ingredients, read books, took classes, and started to put together some test fly sprays to try on my horses and on the horses from my friend’s rescue group–Healing Hearts with Horses (by the way, they pair rescue horses with at-risk youths to bring about some amazing transformations!)

I went into this with the idea to have a natural fly spray to use on my horses and the rescue horses.  I believed that not only did the rescue horses deserve natural spray, but I did not want them carrying their special needs riders with toxic/chemical fly sprays on them–these kids did not need anything adding to their medical situations.

Green Horse Organics did not happen overnight. I started my quest in 2001 and worked and tweaked it for 8 years until I had what I felt was the best natural fly spray that actually worked! The natural hoof trimmer that helped with the rescue horses wanted to know what I was using and after showing it to him, he went a little crazy over it!  Horse shoers/ trimmers become highly allergic/skin sensitive from being near horses with traditional toxic fly sprays over the years, so it was helping people too!

So the bigger picture came to me—I was giving our beloved horses as well as ourselves/ family/ children better, natural options (because we breathe and absorb these ingredients being around our horses). Plus, the environment does not suffer from toxic exposure to groundwater, food etc. That’s what I call a trifecta of Green Goodness! And this is how Green Horse Organics was born.

 

What makes Green Horse Organics products different from most horse products on the market?

Green Horse Organics sets itself apart from traditional toxic sprays because we use only 100% natural and organic ingredients. Plus, we only use the best ingredients that are safe, non-toxic, and chemical-free.

I set myself at the top of the natural fly spray pack because my spray really works– it is a major multi-tasker. It is total horse protection. It protects, heals, calms, and conditions. Providing protection from all types of biting insects, it also heals cuts, scrapes, and is calming because of the essential oils.  So your horse will enjoy being sprayed and relax.  Superb healing oils condition the mane, tail, and hair coat.  All ingredients are listed on my website and on the products! The ingredients list will blow you away– chock-full of the best nature has to offer in a powerful, yet gentle formula. Finally you can have the best of both worlds.

 

What is your favorite Green Horse product to use on your own horses?

My favorite Green Horse Organics product is the Total Horse Protection Fly Spray.  It is awesome and works for so many different problems–itchy tails, flies, dry coats, healing little cuts, preventing rain rot, and so much more.

My favorite product for myself is the Healing Touch Gel (liniment). I use it for aches/pains, especially for my lower back–love it and it smells divine!  All ingredients are human-grade, top-notch ingredients.

 

Is there anything else you’d like to add about yourself or your products?

Green Horse Organics is made in the U.S.A., handcrafted by me and my family in small batches to ensure freshness.

I want to hear from my horse people–tell me about your experiences with Green Horse and ask any questions.  I will answer them! The added products in my line came from my customers’ requests, so I listen to you and truly care about your horse’s health. I share some great stories on my website about the wonderful impact Green Horse Organics has had on horses and an adopted dog. They can be found on the testimonials page. Share your natural tips and show off your horse pictures on my website or Facebook page and stay green and healthy!

One last thing–the year I brought Green Horse to the public in 2010, I was diagnosed with breast cancer at a very young age.  I felt even more compelled to bring natural options to horse owners.  I did not give up on my dream or passion for horses. I have made some amazing friends along the way who continue to support me.

Then again this year, I got the ugly surprise that the cancer had returned, so my surgeons talked me into the big surgery, which I am currently recovering from–a double mastectomy and reconstruction. I live a green, healthy lifestyle and yet this still can happen to us ‘granola cowgirls’.  So get those mammograms, keep your courage-strength-faith, and support your friends dealing with cancer.

Horses helped me get through this the first time and as soon as my doctors give me the okay, I will be back to my barn and with my personal therapy team of horses! Cancer does not define me–it inspires me to live life at a full gallop! I like to challenge myself every year to get out of my horsey comfort zone.  So check out my website later this month to see what I will be up to this year!

For more information about Green Horse Organics, check out Nancy’s website or facebook page.

Nancy has donated a jar of her Healing Touch Liniment Gel for a giveaway on my blog–the random winner will be chosen tomorrow, March 30th.  See this post to enter!